Anchor rode

[DaveS]

Aye!!!

A want tae mak a wee raincoat fur ma autohelm, but a want a bit tae see through.

I have some sprayhood window plastic spare. Let me know your address by PM and how much you need, and I will send you a bit.

Thanks for the most generous offer. In fact, I already have a sizeable piece of sprayhood window material, but I was reluctant to cut a wee corner out of a biggish sheet. Hence I was delighted to agree to trade a finely engineered (IMHO), but now surplus to requirements and positively in the road, mast raising shearlegs gadget for a wee bit of clear plastic which would have avoided cutting my big bit. But plans gang aft aglay...

(Nobody claimed any of this was entirely logical...)

[Clyde_Wanderer]

Can you get sm pvc from the Anne Summers shop?

No, but I can get you some if you need it, in grey colour only though.
Its this new fangled material that is used on lots of flat roofing nowadays, and can be welded together easilt with the correct hot air gun made for the purpose, can even be welded while wet.
C_W

[Silkie]

Sounds like just the thing for my garage roof. What are it's advantages over torch-on felt?

[little boy blue]

cw has been antifouling till dark this evening. he will no doubt be along later.

[Clyde_Wanderer]

Sounds like just the thing for my garage roof. What are it's advantages over torch-on felt?

Silkie, its got something like 20-25 year life expectancy, and is laid over some sort of thin insulating membrane which prevents comdonsation, its also a lot easier to work with, no tar no gas torch no felt etc, can be just laid out over sarking and fitted inside the facia's and gets welded at any joints.
Hope this helps.
C_W

[Clyde_Wanderer]

cw has been antifouling till dark this evening. he will no doubt be along later.

Well managed to get 2 coats on the boot top and the masking tape removed.
Do you want to buy some oxalic acid?

[little boy blue]

.... Do you want to buy some oxalic acid?

yes, why not.

[Rowana]

.... Do you want to buy some oxalic acid?

yes, why not.

I'll have a wee drop too, if you have any spare.

[Clyde_Wanderer]

.... Do you want to buy some oxalic acid?

yes, why not.

I have it advertised elsewhere at £12.50 per kilo delivered, but since I can hand it over to you it will just set you back a tenner.
Will stick some in my van for you.
C_W

[Clyde_Wanderer]

.... Do you want to buy some oxalic acid?

yes, why not.

I'll have a wee drop too, if you have any spare.

Rowana, I made the mistake of advertising it on another place instead of here first and then linking it to the aforementioned place, hence the reason it aint advertised on this site.
It is £12.50 a kilo delivered to UK mainland.
If you pm me your details I will get it away to you on mon next.
Thanks, C_W.

[Clyde_Wanderer]

I guess no one saw my post reply on this thread asking for some advice on anchor chain/rode lengths etc.
I was hoping some of you guys from the west coast could give advice gleened from years of practical experience in the matter.
I'll keep my fingers crossed
C_W

[sahona]

At the risk of liberating a jar of worms.......................
The anchors you quote seem quite light to me, but anyway, they work by never having a direct "chug", so should have enough chain to provide the correct catenary (sp?)
The weight of the boat in this context always raises a question in my mind, as it weighs nothing when afloat - however, if the mass of boat is set moving by a combination of wind and wave, the anchor,chain and rode will be what stops it, hopefully.
If you dig in the anchor, the chain near it should never leave the ground. That means - long enough, heavy enough, and, if on the borderline, connected to the boat by a stretchy bit of rope to absorb shock.
It's all been said and written before, and to be honest, you just have to get out and do it - like most aspects of sailing-
advice is given from the writers personal experience, which may not be pertinant to the readers circumstances.
My tip is to make sure of the bottom-type before dropping the hook. Look for sand/clay avoid weed/rock. sometimes the chart helps, others you can see, others you do multiple tests...

[Silkie]

So what would you recommend for a rode for those of us who typically anchor in 5 to 8m?

[sahona]

I have nothing to gain from this thread, but need clarification of your last statement.
A boat at anchor will be driven back and to the side by a gust and waves.
This is the sheer to the side. As the anchor chain rises and slows the boat, it's head comes more to wind and eventually stops and comes through, That is due to catenery- the weight of chain lifted from the bottom.
The same catenery then pulls the boat forward on the opposite "tack" as the chain sinks, until the next gust/wave catches the boat and sends it backwards again. This is what a boat does at anchor and can be seen on a sensitive GPS (like a furuno) as a "dirty fingenail" when track is viewed.
If a 'springy' rope is added to the ground tackle, the angle of sheer is increased, but the snub shock on the anchor is lessened, therefore it is more likely to stay where it was set.
Please tell me where I am going wrong. I've done this many times, and it seems to work.
To clarify - I set anchor, put as much chain on the floor as space will allow, use a 3m 8plait snubber, then drop more chain to emulate the weight of an angel. - it works.