claymore wrote:More seriously, a guage is useful on a very serious one design race boats (Etchells, J109, dinghies etc) but overkill for the likes of us.
Not making a big thing of this but I tend to disagree. Tuning does matter, I think the Silken one did mention going better on one tack than the other - well, a check on shroud tension should produce information that might explain this.
Cruisers who began their sailing life in dinghies tend to have their rig better tuned and the little things like topping lift let off etc and so the boat goes a bit better.
Of course it is all a matter of perspective, interest and each to their own.
There that should render the post uncontroversial
Not at all (contraversial) my good man.
I'm the first to agree that tuning is essential ans you have misread the point I was making (probably because it was badl made). Most of my sailing has been racing and getting the the rig set up right is a fundamental as is continual tweaking of all the sail controls.
The point I am making to Silkie is that buying and using a Loos guage isn't the answer.
A can of WD40 to lube the threads before any adjustments
The correct sized spanners (so that you don't round off the flats on the rigging terminals)
and some time on a windless afternoon with a downloaded Selden Manual is all the resource that you need.
The loos guage is for a more rarified level of tuning when e.g. in an etchells, you have a set of rig tensions and forestay lengths for different wind speed bands, but no matter what rig tension you have, you'll be altering backstay, mast chocks, kicker, outhaul, cunningham, jib sheet positions etc etc in a never ending cylce. Same for e.g J109's etc. but in all cases, the starting point is to centre the masthead in the middle of the boat, so that you don't have all the "right" settings but the rig hanging over one side of the boat.
We set up our rigs for the whole season, so the absolute tension as measured by a guage is of far less importance than getting it centred, symmetrical, no kinks/bends, some prebend to make sure it doesn't invert, well chocked at deck level (if keel stepped) and is a position that gives a wee bit of weather helm going up wind.
Tight enough so that the leeward shrounds aren't loose at the top end wind speed before reefing the main/rolling the genoa is a good guideline.