Some hints and tips would be much appreciated.
Gas burners
Gas burners
Has anyone taken apart and cleaned the burners on a plastimo 2 burner gas stove?
Some hints and tips would be much appreciated.
Some hints and tips would be much appreciated.
the other half
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Clyde_Wanderer
- Yellow Admiral
- Posts: 1107
- Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 8:00 pm
- Boat Type: Hummingbird 30
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Re: Gas burners
Not dismantled it completly but gave it a good blow out with airline.
I have the Atlantis, and each time I light it patr of the flame blows out as if there is too much pressure or air in it but after a while it settles down and all the flame segments burn ok.
The screw which holds the burner top bit on is all rusted up so I cant tighten it and the bit is quite loose, which could be the cause of the flame blow out.
Be careful that the screw doesent break if you are taking them out.
C_W
I have the Atlantis, and each time I light it patr of the flame blows out as if there is too much pressure or air in it but after a while it settles down and all the flame segments burn ok.
The screw which holds the burner top bit on is all rusted up so I cant tighten it and the bit is quite loose, which could be the cause of the flame blow out.
Be careful that the screw doesent break if you are taking them out.
C_W
Re: Gas burners
I have done the job on a Plastimo two-burner, grill and oven, unknown model and a Neptune which was similar in most respects. The Neptune was on board a friend's boat when it sank.
Burner top screws are invariably rusted well in. I drilled off the head to get the top off and found the bowl, which helps distribute the gas full of crap. The alloy casting was soaked in coke for a couple of days which allowed the stub of the screw to be removed with mole-grips.
The grill assembly is another rust magnet. The pipe and gauze may be salvagable but the machine screws that the assembly hangs off rust royally. Not a hard thing to replace.
Valves come apart quite easily allowing the alloy cones to be cleaned up. Don't mix the component parts as the cone size for the burners and oven/grill are different. The oven valve was the only one on the two ovens I worked on which had a flame-failure device. The small bore copper pipe from the oven FF device to the valve is fragile and prone to work hardening, so go easy removing. The FF tip must be positioned so it is in the flame. Heating the tip generates a small electrical charge which energises the coil in the solenoid which keeps the gas supply flowing. When lighting the oven pushing in the valve control knob does the same thing so if the FF is goosed it is possible to remove the solenoid so the burner will work without the FF feature... but Southampton Calor will supply all the bits needed to refurbish.
While you have the cooker in bits it is worthwhile removing the stainless steel panels (pop rivets for the most part) and replacing the insulation. I bought a roll of rockwool loft insulation for the purpose. The oven door also comes to bits to allow the insulation to be replaced. The carcass of the oven is mild steel, not stainless and treating the inevitable rust showing through the stove enamelling is a good move before reassembly.
Burner top screws are invariably rusted well in. I drilled off the head to get the top off and found the bowl, which helps distribute the gas full of crap. The alloy casting was soaked in coke for a couple of days which allowed the stub of the screw to be removed with mole-grips.
The grill assembly is another rust magnet. The pipe and gauze may be salvagable but the machine screws that the assembly hangs off rust royally. Not a hard thing to replace.
Valves come apart quite easily allowing the alloy cones to be cleaned up. Don't mix the component parts as the cone size for the burners and oven/grill are different. The oven valve was the only one on the two ovens I worked on which had a flame-failure device. The small bore copper pipe from the oven FF device to the valve is fragile and prone to work hardening, so go easy removing. The FF tip must be positioned so it is in the flame. Heating the tip generates a small electrical charge which energises the coil in the solenoid which keeps the gas supply flowing. When lighting the oven pushing in the valve control knob does the same thing so if the FF is goosed it is possible to remove the solenoid so the burner will work without the FF feature... but Southampton Calor will supply all the bits needed to refurbish.
While you have the cooker in bits it is worthwhile removing the stainless steel panels (pop rivets for the most part) and replacing the insulation. I bought a roll of rockwool loft insulation for the purpose. The oven door also comes to bits to allow the insulation to be replaced. The carcass of the oven is mild steel, not stainless and treating the inevitable rust showing through the stove enamelling is a good move before reassembly.