LOST AT SEA...
... Insight of land. Sundance and crew are adrift. Literally, without a country or port to find refuge and relief. Figuratively, amidst a tumultuous political and bureaucratic rouge sea. Fueled by world events that are slowly coming to light, as we begin to piece together the puzzle that has come apart into jagged, complex shards over the course of the past weeks we have been out at sea with exceptionally limited communications.
Corona, something or another 19, has become a dominating factor in most every person’s life throughout the world, including our own in a profound way, although we were hardly aware of it. Sundance set sail from Langkawi, Malaysia back when the new year was young, bound for points west laying between Southeast Asia and her Caribbean home. Following a delightful stop in Pulah Weh, Sumatra, where we first became aware of Corona, we encountered masked officials and a doctor that was reluctant to grant us admission to Sri Lanka. In India, we endured a three day quarantine before being cleared into the country, and had to leave upon expiration of our visas.
After weeks at sea on the open ocean, crossing the Arabian Sea and pirate-infested waters of the Gulf of Aden, we were detered from Socotra, Yemen and the closed port at Dijbouti, on the Horn of Africa. In Eritrea, we were turned away by military and intercepted by coast guard, patrolling the channels and approaches to their port of entry, Massawa. Now in Sudan territorial waters, we were accosted by a navy gunboat at our first anchorage, and given humanitarian assistance by the army at another. Presently, anchored in the lee of an exposed reef off the coast of Port Sudan, we were able to purchase minimal diesel and provisions at extraordinarily high prices, where we now, hopefully, await more diesel at extortionary cost.
Our manifest and clearance papers still read India, although we have passed through a half dozen countries or more since that time that seems so very long ago. We are confined to the boat, and cannot step foot ashore anywhere in our travels. While the world waits to see what comes next, we need to determine whether to find a place, unmolested by military or authorities, to “wait it out”, or sail on to an unterdeterminable safe haven. All the while with dwindling resources; water, food, and diesel remain our priorities, and are in short supply. No idea of knowing when, where, or how to reprovision, with escalating prices on a cash only basis, of which we have little left.
On behalf of my Polish crew, Ola and Lila, and myself, I extend the most sincerest thanks to Agnieszka, and assisting friends Katarzyna & Blazej, for her dedication and tenacity as our unwavering land support. Communicating her vast research and efforts to us in very short texts, one at a time. (Our Iridium satellite phone has lost connectivity for email, weather forecasts, etc. Only expensive voice and maximum 160 character SMS messages connect us to the world.). Also, to Damian, captain of an Antartica expedition vessel, that is providing our weather forecasts (for the Red Sea! Go figure.) and additional assistance. Without the generosity of this crisis management group, our survival measures may be futile. They have reached out far and wide, including communications and contact information with various embassies. Were it not for the influence of the Polish ambassador to Eqypt in dealing with the Sudanese government, we may not have recieved our provisions. The extent of their involvement and efforts were great. Thank you. I spoke directly to the US Embassy, which proved to be udderly useless.
We have come to discover, without surprise, that there are several other yachts, flying various flags, that are “in the same boat”. Desparate measures are being taken throughout the Red Sea and Mediterranean (no doubt elsewhere in the world) by sailors of all nationalities to secure the vital necessities to sustain life aboard a boat forced to remain at sea. Sudan has been tolerant. Egypt, with the repution as being among the most disagreeable countries to cruising yachts, appears to be the most welcoming and accommodating. As such, Egypt will most likely be our next destination. First hand accounts share stories of Mediterranean nation’s coast guards forcing small sailboats out to sea in full gales at gunpoint, violating international maritime law ensuring safety of ships at sea by failing to provide safe harbor.
I think we can all respect each country’s need and desire to protect their coastline and citizens. However, we have become a ragtag fleet of seamen without a country to make landfall or secure the most basis needs of life - food, water, safety. Ironically, having all been quarantined out at sea for several weeks now, we are among the most unlikely people in the world to be carrying the Corona virus! We have personally experienced success from the Polish Embassy in Cairo. Other sailors report positve feedback regarding their respective embassies and governments, including the UK, Germany, Sweden. The Swiss are, apparently, offering assistance to all in need. However, we have not established contact. Sad to say, all USA vessels are reporting negative feedback regarding US Embassies, in various countries. Similar to my own dismall attempts, no vessels has been able to convey any success in receiving even remote assistance. I am grateful, and embarrassed, that my help had to come from a foreign nation, due to my crew’s different (and fortunate) nationality.
If this message manages to post in Facebook at all (My temporary Sudan SIM card I was lucky enough to obtain is not strong enough to access email or internet.), please send any direct important responses you may desire via Messenger, not FB. Messenger, as always, seems to be the one thing that connects when all else fails. Should we press on to Egypt, we are hopeful to obtain new SIM cards there. Sincerest wishes, positive vibes, and love to all. Please stay safe!
