Anyone ever replaced an outboard starting cord?

[Silkie]

Specifically a venerable Yamaha 8hp 2-stroke twin. Seems like the sort of job that will be fraught with pitfalls. Any hints or tips?

[Storyline]

Never done it but seem to recall there is a potentially very dangerous spring involved

[sahona]

Done it a few times on various engines - outboards, lawnmowers, strimmers etc. All because the pull cord was too short for my gibbon-like arms (???)
Anyway, the hint posted above is true - there is a potentially violent spring involved, and it is unlikely you will be able to control it if the cord is broken and the spring expanded in its housing.
If you can - well and good . It all depends on how the cord attaches to the ratchet pulley. If you have to separate it to get to a knot inside, there will be a fight with the spring, if not, simply attach a new cord - I use the green braided stuff that fishermen throw overboard and is available in most mooring areas, and hand wind the spring to the right tension (not so tight that it closes the coils) then fit the handle which stops it recoiling.
Put it in a bag and fumble blindly to disassemble if you are unsure of the springs security as it will try to slash and blind you if let it. The other 'gotcha' possible is the hook end of the spring coming off it's little peg - you'll see what I mean if it happens - This can occur if the spring winds so tight that the coils bind together when the cord is pulled.
If the whole thing has exploded over the shed, and you are relatively unharmed, it will have to be captured, hand wound, and wired in order to get it into the housing again - then you have to fish out the little bits of thin wire you secured it with.
All in all an interesting mornings entertainment. Bon chance mon brave.

[Silkie]

I haven't yet investigated the exact set-up since I only spotted the problem just before leaving the boat at the end of the last visit. The cord is still intact although it's in such a state that it won't last another season and I'm surprised I haven't noticed it gradually deteriorating.

I like the sound of "...if not, simply attach a new cord..." but will bear the dire warnings in mind if it's not as easy as that.

[mm5aho]

Two more tricks or hints in this adventure...

If the spring has broken at the outer end where it fits onto a peg, its possible to recover this without buying a new one.
At the broken end, figure out which way the bent bit should be, then heat the end of the spring to red heat and let air cool. Then with long nose pliers put a bend in as the original one was.

If you end up with a "spung" spring (unintentional unwind), then don't just try to rewind it back into place. Rather wind it up on a rake handle or similar dowel and then use insulating tape in 3 places to tape it into coiled position. 2 people an advantage it this.
Now take the assembly of coiled spring with tape, and fit into its place. Once both ends secured, use a stanley knife blade to slit the tape. This will release the spring to be contained in its working position.

If none of this makes sense, ask someone else to do it.

[Storyline]

..... I like the sound of "...if not, simply attach a new cord..."

+

..... If none of this makes sense, ask someone else to do it.

=

[BarnacleBill]

If it's just the cord your replacing, then it's quite straight forward. There are some good video's on youtube.

[Silkie]

I had a closer look at this at the weekend. It's only the outermost 6" that's frayed so I'm now thinking I'll just cut it off since I never pull anything like the whole cord out to start the motor. I suppose the spring would be under slightly greater tension when at rest but I can't see it making much difference - unless anyone knows otherwise?

[sahona]

Hopefully the cord will never reach it's end stop. If it does, it will hurt your fingers and have a shorter life.
Could you "sheath" the worn bit with that fishermans stuff I mentioned earlier?