Stainless exhaust elbow for 1GM10

[ubergeekian]

I'm planning to replace Jumblie's exhaust elbow this winter, as the inner pipe was looking a bit frail last spring. There are stainless replacements sold on eBay, though you can get them for a lot less if you buy direct. There have been some disparaging comments on TOP about the grade of stainless used, but at less than half the price of a Yanmar mild steel part it seemed worth a punt ... it can't last less than a mild steel one, surely?

So the order went in and the elbow arrived within a week. The first one. There was a manufacturing flaw in it which I pointed out in an email to the maker/seller. He sent out a free replacement within a day or so, which has now arrived. My overall impression is very high: the material is satisfyingly thick and the welding is very well done. One of the mounting stud holes is rather close to the weld, which will require a little care on assembly. I'm not going to fit it till the spring, but so far it's looking good

http://www.exhaustelbow.com is the website, and if you buy direct it's $92 including shipping, for which paypal took £60.03 from my bank account. Marine Power charge £153.09 (including postage) for the Yanmar original.

Only a customer.

[spuddy]

If it equals the life of the Yanmar job then its got to be worth it, like you say. Keep us posted how you get on with it but I might get one to keep in stock anyway - funny how something less than a hundred quid can almost be an impulse buy but when it goes over I'm more likely to procrastinate.

[Clyde_Wanderer]

I would suggest using a Socket head bolt in the hole that is close to the weld, this will prevent a hex head getting damaged by a ring spanner or socket slipping off.
That is if you can get acess with an Alen key.
C_W

[ubergeekian]

I would suggest using a Socket head bolt in the hole that is close to the weld, this will prevent a hex head getting damaged by a ring spanner or socket slipping off.
That is if you can get acess with an Alen key.
C_W

That's a neat idea. It would mean removing a stud from the head, but I think it's one that I had to fit to the new head myself, so it may not be too tight, yet. The clearance beside the nut shouldn't be too bad - it's just that one side of the base of it may be slightly raised by sitting on the weld. I'm thinking that a copper washer might squash down and take up the irregularities.

[FullCircle]

I would suggest using a Socket head bolt in the hole that is close to the weld, this will prevent a hex head getting damaged by a ring spanner or socket slipping off.
That is if you can get acess with an Alen key.
C_W

That's a neat idea. It would mean removing a stud from the head, but I think it's one that I had to fit to the new head myself, so it may not be too tight, yet. The clearance beside the nut shouldn't be too bad - it's just that one side of the base of it may be slightly raised by sitting on the weld. I'm thinking that a copper washer might squash down and take up the irregularities.

You might suffer some torque drop off with a copper washer.....

[ubergeekian]

You might suffer some torque drop off with a copper washer.....

True, but it would be easy enough to check regularly. Those nuts are so lightly torqued anyway that I used the head swap as an excuse to buy myself a wee 3/8" drive Norbar torque wrench - my 1/2" drive one didn't go low enough.