BLUEMOMENT

Any tips on how to remove old varnish? Sanding is boring and one never seems to be able to get it all off. Is there a solvent that will solve the problem?

I find a hot air paint stripper and a scraper is quick and easy - obviously be careful not to burn the wood.

Scraper, with the grain. Gets the varnish off and polishes the wood.
against the grain - bad idea.

If you have a lot to do invest in a cabinet scraper. The profiling helps with mouldings etc.
For big flat areas a plane blade is handy, but you will need to stone it frequently. I would be wary of using chemicals which can burn wood and raise the fibres.

I, too, would recommend staying away from chemicals.

I've found this to be a useful tool



Combination ShaveHook

Good Luck with the task.

More importantly - what are you going to replace the varnish with?

I've given up on using varnish externally, but have still to find the ideal solution.

I bought new locker lids last season and have put on lots of coats of Deks Olje D1 which gives me the look that I want but is very soft. It is very easy to put on a new coat without any preparation which is what I want. I assume that I should topcoat with D2, but I worry that will then need preparation before adding new coats every season.

Ash

ash wrote:More importantly - what are you going to replace the varnish with?

I'm an idle sailor so I use teak oil. It's a bit messy when it's fresh so it's not very practical for seats but it helps to preserve the wood, you can buy it most places and for small areas, you can wipe it on with a cloth.
Derek

garredfox wrote:Any tips on how to remove old varnish? Sanding is boring and one never seems to be able to get it all off. Is there a solvent that will solve the problem?

So, how did you remove the varnish? and what did you repace it with? Any learning curves?

It's that time of year!

TIA

Ash

I have used Nitromors on the boat table and the inside of the Mirror to retape the seams.
It works well and doesn't attack the wood like a caustic based stripper would.
It helps if you can put the piece in plastic bags for the "leave 20 mins, don't let it dry out" period 'coz the solvents sod off smartish if you don't try to contain them.
I have used a paint scraper or a Sandvic scraper to remove the goo, a scouring pad can attack the bits left when you have got the thick off.

I've been doing similar, bit by bit. Scrapers work quite well if filed up to pruduce a burr - watch out for dragging up the grain as mentioned. I use that for bulk removal then switch to cabinet scraper; bit of a knack to sharpening them though. Broken glass works well; a glass cutter and some luck might get a shape to match a moulding but straight lines are easy. Two cutting edges to each side and when blunt throw away or break again. GLOVES! obviously.